Now in ON1 Plus – Color Management Course
- January 24, 2020
- 11,729 Views
Posted by Hudson Henry
Welcome to Color Management by Hudson Henry. In this course, we’re going to dive into the color management workflow in a simple and easy to understand way. Color management can be an intimidating topic, color spaces, ICC profiles, monitor/printer calibration, soft proofing the list goes on… This course aims to bring clarity to the process—so you can get the results you want without the hassle.
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12 Comments
SarathJanuary 23, 2020
Looking forward to, I am color blind when it comes to color management 🙂
Hudson HenryJanuary 24, 2020
I sure hope you enjoy and that we get you seeing full spectrum. 🙂
Fred ThurmanJanuary 25, 2020
Thanks for the great course. Question: I have both a Colormunki and a Spyder 4. When I use them on my IPad I get vastly different results. Is there any way to determine which is correct?
Hudson HenryFebruary 2, 2020
I guess the ultimate test would be to print from it after softproofing profiled each way. I’m not big on trusting mobile screens (including my macbook pro 15″ touchbar), but it would still be an interesting experiment. I’d be more inclined to run it on a good desktop monitor though. 🙂
Tony ComitoJanuary 26, 2020
Hudson,
In the first video you chose D65 as opposed to D50 or D55. How does the choice of D65 impact, if at all, the brightness of the monitor. For example, if you chose D55 would you still set the brightness at 80 cdl?
Hudson HenryFebruary 2, 2020
D65 is more of a white point. I think it’s generally the best choice unless you’re in a very specific color temperature dispaly environment at something quite different than 6500k, but yes, I’d still stick with 80cd/m2 for brightness
Tony ComitoFebruary 11, 2020
Hudson,
I would guess that most of us are viewing our images in a normal home lighting environment with color temperatures that vary between daylight (6500K) in a very bright room room with large south facing (at least in the northern hemisphere) windows and rooms lit with 3000K to 4000K lights. In my case it’s mostly 3000K to 4000K. Still suggest D65?
Hudson HenryFebruary 14, 2020
Yeah I do. It’s just standard. You’re looking for a white point, not a warm white point. I’ve tried tweaking it and I didn’t like my results. There’s a reason D65 is standard.
d WeberFebruary 4, 2020
Hudson,
The Costco printers are calibrated by Dry Creek Photo. They state that the profiles are built for print viewing under industry standard D50. Should you pick one of the following: 1) D50 based on their suggestion ; 2) the ambient light color in the room you you are soft proofing the photo; 3) the ambient light color in which the photo is being displayed. I also don’t know if the Dry Creek Photo information has not been updated. With the general application of LED lighting, I believe, in general, lighting ambient room light color temperatures has changed of the last several years.
Hudson HenryFebruary 14, 2020
I’ve just never had a problem with D65 and in my experience it is the industry standard. I’d run a couple small prints proofed with your monitor at D65 and D50. Maybe shoot a color checker on a white board marked D50 and another marked D65. Run the small prints at Costco and see which is better. I’d love to hear the result! 🙂
Frank GencarelliFebruary 5, 2020
Hudson
Great job on a subject that a lot of people like myself have problems with. I have recalibrated my monitor three times using the settings you suggested. I have been using a spyder 5 elite to calibrate my monitor and I am printing on a Canon Pixma Pro 10. The prints are still coming out darker. Any suggestions you have would be appreciated. Thanks again for a great couse.
Hudson HenryFebruary 14, 2020
Be sure you’re shutting off the automatic color settings in the print driver. Be sure you soft proof the image and I’d be sure you turn off the Spyder’s auto ambient light adjustment mode if it has one. Is the color looking good otherwise?
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